Organic Cotton
Certificates: GOTS, Oeko-Tex, OCS 100
- Cotton is a natural seed fiber.
- Cotton is the most common natural material used today in garment production. It is durable, breathable, absorbent, and soft. Cotton is ideal for dyeing and printing. The material is also biodegradable and hypoallergenic.
- Nearly all cotton is grown in rotation, but conventional cotton generally has a higher environmental impact. It requires a vast amount of water and depletes the soil. To increase production, harmful pesticides, and fertilizers are used, polluting the grounds and waters.
- Baserange sources organic cotton, as we want to ensure that no harmful chemicals are used in the entire production process, water consumption is controlled, water is not contaminated and workers' rights are also preserved.
- Organic agriculture uses agronomic, biological, and mechanical techniques instead of synthetic methods.
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Organic cotton supports good soil health and ecosystems and is not harmful to human health or the environment. No pesticides or fertilizers are used, as organic cotton relies instead on natural cycles and local conditions. Most of the organic cotton we use is also rain-fed and doesn’t require much irrigation. Organic farms also generally support more plant and animal species.
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There is also a lot of cotton that is certified organic, that may not actually be organic, as it is mixed with conventional cotton. Organic cotton claims of fibers are not always verified. This is because the demand for organic cotton is big, but the yields are not as large as from conventional cotton farms and droughts are becoming more common.
- Shop our Cotton products.
Bamboo Lyocell
- Lyocell is a manmade fiber made of natural regenerated cellulose.
- The lyocell fiber spinning process is a green technology that eliminates toxic chemical use and chemical reactions and substantially reduces air and water emissions.
- Lyocell is made from wood pulp that’s harvested from tree farms that are FSC certified, sustainably managed and traceable. The tree farms have been established on land unsuitable for food crops or grazing.
- Lyocell is made of eucalyptus or bamboo trees that don’t require irrigation or pesticides and grow fast.
- Lyocell fiber production itself is more environmentally friendly than cotton production due to its closed-loop process. This means that up to 99% of the water and solvents used are recycled and reused.
- Amine oxide is one of the solvents used in the production.
- Production plant emissions are significantly lower in comparison to many other human-made fiber operations.
- The closed-loop process used to manufacture Lyocell fiber does not require bleach, which is commonly used in the production of other fabrics.
- Sea cell is a similar fiber made from seaweed and sea algae. It reputedly has therapeutic qualities.
- Lyocell fiber is stronger than viscose both when dry and wet.
- Shop our Lyocell products.
Bamboo Viscose
Certificates: Oeko-Tex, FSC
- Viscose is a manmade fiber made of natural regenerated cellulose.
- The cellulose we use comes from bamboo or aloe vera
- Baserange’s bamboo is sourced from FSC-certified plantations. No chemical product is used on the plantations.
- Yarns are certified Oeko-tex, meaning the production process is approved as environmentally and socially responsible.
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- The advantage of bamboo is that it grows fast, up to one foot per day. It can survive with rainwater as its only sustenance. It also doesn’t require fertilizers or pesticides.
- Bamboo uses only a third of the water that cotton consumes.
- As it is 100% cellulosic it is biodegradable in nature. Bamboo fiber decomposes without causing pollution.
- Breathable, warm, stretchy fiber.
- It also contributes to the reduction of C02 in the growth phase by acting as a carbon sink. Compared to a pine tree, bamboo can sequester up to five times the amount of carbon from the atmosphere.
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- Processing bamboo viscose requires some harmful chemicals to dissolve the plant and transform it into a paste that can be spun into textile fibers.
- The cultivation of bamboo must be highly regulated to ensure growers are not adding fertilizer and/or pesticides to increase yields.
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Shop our Bamboo Viscose products.
Silk
Certificates: Oeko-Tex
- Silk from domesticated (mulberry) silkworms is a strong, naturally organic fiber. It was the first fiber used to make cloth.
- Regulates body temperature and is flame retardant.
- Dries eight times faster than cotton, doesn’t use pesticides and has less of an impact on land, water, and air.
- Rich in protein and amino acids, silk is good for skin and hair. It even aids in hydrating skin and hair. Silk is also hypoallergenic and antibacterial.
- The by-products of silk production are also utilised, with pupae being eaten by people or used as cattle feed and sericin used in cosmetics and medicine.
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Our silk comes from farms in China, where most of the world’s silk is made. Our fabric supplier has a long-term relationship with these farms and visits them regularly.
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The Mulberry trees that are grown to feed silkworms sequester carbon from the atmosphere.
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Sericulture or the silk industry also employs rural populations.
- Shop our Silk products.
Wild Silk
Certificates: Oeko-Tex
- Wild silk is made by silkworms. As the name of the fabric suggests, the silkworms live in the wild. Wild silkworms feed on and live in trees.
- Wild silk is a lot more textured than regular silk.
- Due to its short fiber length, wild silk is more comparable to wool.
- It has the same positive attributes as silk (see above).
- The process of making wild silk is also known as non-violent, which is when the silk is processed without killing the silkworm. For around 30 days the silkworm grows and munches on tree leaves until it reaches its final size. It then starts to spin its cocoon, which takes another 15 days. Once the moth leaves its cocoon, the silk is collected and processed into yarn.
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Shop our Wild Silk products.
Linen
Certificates: Oeko-Tex
- Linen is a bast fiber.
- The linen we use originates in France and Belgium, close to the fabric and garment factories we work with.
- Linen requires no irrigation, and it can be grown even in poor soil where food cultivation would be impossible. It requires no chemicals for growth or for rendering into yarns for textiles.
- One hectare of flax absorbs more than 3.7 metric tons of carbon dioxide and stores it in the soil thanks to its large root system.
- Linen is grown in rotation, nourishing the soil for other crops. It is also always non-GMO.
- A breathable fabric, linen is strong and absorbent. It’s more durable and dries faster than cotton. Its naturally cooling properties make it an appealing option for summer wear and layering.
- Linen production is almost zero waste, as flax roots are so long that almost 100% are utilized and leftovers like flax dust can be used for wall insulations. The seeds can provide oil for dyes, paint, cosmetics, and floor coverings. The by-products of linen production can also be processed into a pulp used for banknotes or fiberboard.
- As linen fabric is said to get better and softer with age and each wash, having and caring for a linen garment for a long time is covetable.
- Its fibers are shorter than those of silk and the fabric is rougher, not shiny.
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Shop our Linen products.
Wool
Origin: Australia, Austria
Certificates: Oeko-tex 100, Woolmark, SustainaWOOL
- Wool comes from sheep and goats.
- The process of producing wool fabric starts with shearing the sheep, after which impurities are removed. Wool is then separated into different quality classes based on fiber diameter, length and color.
- Wool regulates body temperature and is breathable.
- The fabric is biodegradable, and it comes from a renewable source.
- Wool is often seen as the technical fabric of nature without the use of man-made substances because it also absorbs moisture without feeling wet or cold, is antibacterial and has odor-fighting properties.
- The natural crimps of wool allow the fabric to maintain its shape well and endure stretching.
- Wool is resistant to static electricity, hypoallergenic and fire-resistant.
- Shop our Wool products
Hemp
- Hemp is a bast fiber.
- Hemp needs little help to thrive and most hemp cultivation is done with rainfall and no irrigation.
- Hemp is grown in rotation, nourishing the soil for other crops. While it grows, it replenishes the soil with nitrogen and other nutrients, while removing toxic chemicals at the same time. Hemp was intentionally grown at the radioactive Chernobyl site to remove toxins and pollutants from the soil.
- The average tree takes about 10 years to grow to maturity, while hemp can take as little as 3 months to be ready to harvest. Industrial hemp plants absorb more carbon dioxide than trees and store it in the soil thanks to their root system.
- For hemp production, herbicides aren’t necessary. Hemp also naturally reduces pests, so no pesticides are needed. It returns 60-70% of the nutrients it takes from the soil.
- When you add processing into the equation, cotton uses around four times as much water as hemp. Hemp can produce over double the fiber yield per hectare as cotton.
- Nothing is wasted in producing hemp: seeds are used to make oil and food supplements, while the stalks are used for fiber.
- The fiber is naturally UV resistant and absorbent and is also known for its anti-bacterial, anti-mold and insulative qualities.
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Shop our Hemp products.
Ecovero Viscose
Certifications: EU Ecolabel, FSC, PEFC
- We use Ecovero viscose.
- The bleaching is chlorine free.
- The wood fibers are fully traceable to sustainably managed forests in Europe.
- 60% of the trees used come from Austria and Bavaria where the fabric is also produced.
- Nearly all chemicals used during production are recovered and reused.
- The whole supply chain from production to disposal has a low environmental impact, which has been certified by the EU Ecolabel.
- The production requires up to 50% less water and up to 50% less CO2 emissions than generic Viscose.
- Shop our Ecovero Viscose products.
Modal
Certifications: EU Ecolabel, FSC, PEFC
- Modal is a rayon fiber that is known to be durable and flexible.
- We only use Lenzing Modal, which is made by a process that recovers and reuses byproducts.
- The wood fibers are fully traceable to sustainably managed forests.
- Modal is made of beech tree pulp that doesn’t require irrigation.
- The fabric biodegradable. It is made by spinning tree cellulose and soaking that in sodium hydroxide.
- Producing modal requires 10-20 times less water than cotton and uses fewer chemicals than conventional viscose.
- The fabric also resists pilling and doesn’t shrink or crease, it gets stronger when it’s wet and doesn’t lose its shape.
- Micro modal is a lighter, softer and finer version of conventional modal.
- The fabric is biodegradable.
Recycled Fabrics
Certifications: GRS, Oeko-tex
- The process of making recycled fabrics requires firstly for the material to be sorted into clothing that can be reused and clothing that is too damaged to be reused and is therefore recycled. Clothing is then sorted based on fiber contents and color. It is a labor-intensive process, which is why only less than 1% of clothing ends up being recycled into new material.
- Making recycled fabric uses less energy, dye, and water than virgin materials.
- It also reduces the amount of fabric going into landfill and keeps materials in circulation for longer.
- Recycled cotton is made from pre-consumer textiles such as cotton scraps, factory offcuts, or deadstock from virgin cotton fabric production. Recycled cotton is often paired with virgin cotton to improve the quality of the finished fabric, as recycled cotton often has lesser yarn strength.
- Recycled wool yarns are shorter and easily break during production. We combine recycled wool with other fibers, like polyamide to make the fabric more durable and reduce waste in production.
- Wool is the most recycled fiber and was the first fiber to be recycled: the recycling of wool has been done since the 19th century.
- Wool has the potential to last at least 30 years and be recycled two or more times.
- Recycling wool results in reduced methane emissions from sheep, reduced land use and water pollution from washing wool.
- The wool we use is recycled in a closed loop system, meaning fibers are turned into yarn to create new products of similar quality and use to the original.
- Recycled wool saves 11kg of CO2 and 500l of water per kilo compared to virgin wool.
- Recycled polyamide has all the good qualities of virgin polyamide with a reduced environmental impact.
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Shop our Recycled products.
Recycled Cashmere
Certifications: Oeko-tex
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Originates from goats in Kashmir, India.
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Cashmere goats live in the wild with the herders.
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The yield and quality of cashmere are very dependent on the environment and are affected by temperatures and the goat’s diet. This is why cashmere goats only live in specific grassland environments.
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The goats grow two coats of hair, with the inner one being soft and fine. The inner coat is only a small percentage of the full fleece and sheds naturally in spring when harvested.
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When goats are grazing, they pull grass out by the root, which stops it from being able to regenerate. Traditional grazing methods considered this by having more sheep instead of goats to keep the land from degrading.
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We use recycled cashmere, as the effects of cashmere goats on the land from herding and cashmere production are too harsh.
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Using recycled cashmere allows us to reduce methane emissions from goats, and reduce land use and water pollution from washing cashmere.
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Recycled cashmere uses less energy, dye, and water than virgin cashmere. It also reduces the amount of fabric going into landfill and keeps materials in circulation for longer.
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It is a durable and resilient fabric that resists wrinkles and maintains shape well. The fabric is also warmer than wool.
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The fabric can be dyed easily.
Deadstock Fabric
Certifications: GRS, Oeko-tex
- The process of making recycled fabrics requires firstly for the material to be sorted into clothing that can be reused and clothing that is too damaged to be reused and is therefore recycled. Clothing is then sorted based on fiber contents and color. It is a labor-intensive process, which is why only less than 1% of clothing ends up being recycled into new material.
- Making recycled fabric uses less energy, dye, and water than virgin materials.
- It also reduces the amount of fabric going into landfill and keeps materials in circulation for longer.
- Recycled cotton is made from pre-consumer textiles such as cotton scraps, factory offcuts, or deadstock from virgin cotton fabric production. Recycled cotton is often paired with virgin cotton to improve the quality of the finished fabric, as recycled cotton often has lesser yarn strength.
- Recycled wool yarns are shorter and easily break during production. We combine recycled wool with other fibers, like polyamide to make the fabric more durable and reduce waste in production.
- Wool is the most recycled fiber and was the first fiber to be recycled: the recycling of wool has been done since the 19th century.
- Wool has the potential to last at least 30 years and be recycled two or more times.
- Recycling wool results in reduced methane emissions from sheep, reduced land use and water pollution from washing wool.
- The wool we use is recycled in a closed loop system, meaning fibers are turned into yarn to create new products of similar quality and use to the original.
- Recycled wool saves 11kg of CO2 and 500l of water per kilo compared to virgin wool.
- Recycled polyamide has all the good qualities of virgin polyamide with a reduced environmental impact.
Regenerative Fabrics
Certifications: GRS, Oeko-tex
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Regenerative agriculture is the process of working with nature to restore degraded soils using a closed-loop system.
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This is done through various methods such as never leaving land exposed by using cover crops, doing crop rotation to introduce nutrients to the soil, low tilling of the ground like digging the soil to store more carbon dioxide, using compost, integrating livestock and intercropping by planting different crops next to each other. Agroforestry and silvopasture are also practical techniques used in regenerative farming where trees and grazing livestock are introduced on the farm.
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The practices implemented are dependent on climate, the local ecosystem and natural resources. There are no fixed practices, rather it is about adopting holistic principles of farming that improve soil health.
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Regenerative farming is beneficial from an environmental, economic and social perspective.
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It increases biodiversity, makes the soil more flood and drought resilient, has larger yields, enhances the habitat for wildlife and is getting investments from brands so farmers are getting support to implement these practices.
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Regenerative agriculture also improves the cleanliness of water and lessens pollution, as no pesticides are used. Increased nutrient levels in the soil also help store more carbon dioxide.
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We currently only use regenerative labelled cotton.
Shop our regenerative products.
Fact Sheet Turkey
• Can provide GOTs, OCS, Oeko-Tex, Sedex & BCI certificates.
• They use a natural dyeing process thanks to plant-based pigments.
• Rainwater from the factory roof is collected and used the dyeing process.
• Reduced usage of ground water.
• They use water based inks for printing.
• Promotes fibres grown in healthy soil in an attempt to reduce pesticides.
• They have developed their own Ethical Standards handbook.
Organic cotton (Brazil), modal (Belgium), Silk (China) & merino wool (Australia).
My husband’s father started working with silk in 1949, when everything was done by hand. Back then he wove fabrics for the local farmers. Now the factory is a beacon in our community. We know most of the people in the town, and they recognize me and my husband and our kids. We feel responsible for the younger generations. We organize different activities to teach school children about textiles, and some of the children who spent time with us while they were in school will eventually come back and work here.
My specialization is working with color. My favorites are the plum and mustard tones, and natural palettes of beige and ecru. I have a system for playing and experimenting with color, and I rely on my own vision. Creating color has to do with how you view the world, how you evaluate or interrogate it. I live and see the world when I look at my colors and when I experiment with them.
My husband and I have been working together now for 35 years. We are the only integrated silk producer in Turkey, which means that we have had to learn everything by ourselves and in turn to teach the people who work for us. We have no one to ask questions of. It is difficult work, and we have to give 100% of ourselves – but we do it out of love, because we are a family.
My husband’s father started working with silk in 1949, when everything was done by hand. Back then he wove fabrics for the local farmers. Now the factory is a beacon in our community. We know most of the people in the town, and they recognize me and my husband and our kids. We feel responsible for the younger generations. We organize different activities to teach school children about textiles, and some of the children who spent time with us while they were in school will eventually come back and work here.
We feel a responsibility to contribute and empower our community. We have the opportunity with this place to give back to the people of our town. The community is as tightly knit as a family. The local kids are my kids. We are not just employers and employees. We collaborate and have similar lifestyles, and we all work here together to improve ourselves. We eat in the same kitchen, and the same food, and we celebrate each other’s birthdays. We are a family.
Fact Sheet Portugal
Linen (Belgium), silk (China), yack wool (Mongolia), merino wool (France) & cashmere (Nepal).
Fact Sheet France
• Family-run and established in 1949.
• Can provide GOTs, OCS, Oeko-Tex, Sedex & BCI certificates.
• They use a natural dyeing process thanks to plant-based pigments.
• Rainwater from the factory roof is collected and used the dyeing process.
• Reduced usage of ground water.
• They use water based inks for printing.
• Promotes fibres grown in healthy soil in an attempt to reduce pesticides.
• They have developed their own Ethical Standards handbook.
Fibre usage
Organic cotton (Brazil), modal (Belgium), Silk (China) & merino wool (Australia).
to Running a Company
I began to learn everything about textiles — from raising the goats to dyeing, spinning the yarn, everything. After some years I heard about a local sock factory that was closing because they owner could not pay the bills. He’d laid off all of his workers, about 20 of them; the machines had been sold to Turkey. I thought this factory should not disappear, so I decided to make an offer. This was around 2007. Suddenly I was no longer a farmer and a breeder. I was at the head of a textile company.
Soon after the stock market crash the demand for “made in France” went up, up, up. People would hear about us and seek us out — that meant we could choose who we wanted to work with. We have to have money, of course — that’s what “keeps the motor oiled,” but it’s not the only thing. We wanted to share something deep with the people we work with. That was always important. And when we met Marie and Blandine, in around 2014, it was — tout de suite! — very good business together. I liked very much the materials they used, the way they work to keep fashion socially and ecologically engaged.
This is a critical period for the earth, these next 20 years. I think we have to do more than our best. How can we be more efficient environmentally? At the mill, 80 percent of our electricity is solar. All of our buildings are made of wood reclaimed from the countryside. We try to reduce plastic. If the knitting isn’t working we go back and reuse the material.
Yak fleece is a material I’ve appreciated a long time and for many years have mixed with mohair. We also want to use wool from yaks, because it is a stronger fiber. Four years ago we made a visit to Mongolia to meet with the breeders— we try to buy directly from them. Each time I visit people who are close to nature you notice how they have deep serenity and simplicity. And it was interesting to see how they care for the animals and how they comb the yak fleece; we want to use it for socks, for example, because it is a stronger fiber. And when the border opens again and they can come visit us in France, I want them to see how we work with the mohair breeder to choose the fleece, how we use the fleece. Maybe there are some things that can be adapted to their product.
Pigment Source; Woad
Pigment Source; Kareel
Pigment Source; Rubia
Pigment Source; Nimbus
Pigment Source; Gallnut
Gallnuts (quercus infectoria) are formed when oak trees excrete a tannin-rich substance. They are used as both a dye and a natural mordant. Gallnuts produce shades of beige. Combined with iron, the colour changes to grey and black. The dye improves lightfastness. The nuts are also used medicinally and have been used to make ink.
Pigment Source; Hematite
Hematite, also known as blood stone, is an iron oxide mineral found in soils that creates shades of red. The red pigment it creates was one of the oldest sources of dye used for writing and dyeing. Today it is used to create gems for jewellery, in medical equipment and by the shipping industry.
Pigment Source; Chestnut
Pigment Source; Cutch
Pigment Source; Logwood
Pigment Source; Acacia
Pigment Source; Mulberry
Mulberry leaves (morus alba) are used to extract chlorophyll for dyeing. Mulberry trees are fast growing and grow in the Mediterranean and Asia. The resulting dyes are muted shades of yellow and green. Mulberry leaves are mainly cultivated to feed silkworms. Leaves are also used for tea and the fruit is eaten.
Pigment Source; Basalt
Basalt is a volcanic stone that creates lightfast shades of black and grey. It is the most common rock type to cover earth’s surface. Rich in magnesium and iron, it is formed of solidified lava. The stone is often crushed for use in construction, because of it’s durability and strength. We use basalt dye extracted from quarries in Italy, France and Cyprus.
These pieces are dyed by hand in a small atelier in Toulouse that uses ancestral techniques. The techniques, namely recipes for extracting pigment are sourced from old books. When the atelier started out, woad seeds were sourced from a conservatory that dates to Napoleon, who used woad to dye uniforms. The atelier then partnered up with local farmers to plant the woad for their dyes. Working with the bacteria in the dyeing process is unpredictable; sometimes it doesn’t work because of the properties of the fabric or the weather. It requires taking good care of the dyeing vat and having a good sense of the properties of different fabrics.
Woad has a long root, making it almost indestructible. The herb has indigo as the main dyeing component and is often mixed with indigo to get darker hues. Given the right conditions, the woad leaves start to ferment, excreting pigment into the water. The fabric is then dipped into the dye vat. When the fabric comes out of the dye vat it is yellow-green until oxidation turns it pastel blue in a matter of minutes. The medicinal plant is also known to have an anti-inflammatory effect as well as healing properties for the skin.
The synthetically dyed fabrics we work with are mostly made via reactive dyeing, which is often used for cellulose fibers. It is known as the dyeing technique with the best colorfastness for cotton. This technique, also known as low-impact dyeing, ensures dye molecules form a covalent bond with the fiber so the color won't be broken down by washing or sunlight, and will not be affected by changes in PH. The dye contains no heavy metals and the process does not require a mordant. The dyeing process is only done at 30C compared to the 100C of other synthetic dyeing processes and uses less water and salt. Reactive dyes are also healthy for the wearer as the dye isn’t absorbed by the skin. Pollutants associated with reactive dyeing are color, salt, alkali, and soaping agents. Beam dyeing is used in Turkey to decrease the carbon footprint. These machines have high pressure that dyes the fabric more efficiently.
ll our dyehouses have in-house wastewater treatment, after which water is used in local agriculture or sent to be used by the city. The water is treated to control metals and PH. Rainwater is collected to use in the dyeing process in Turkey. We work with yarns that are dyed in a way that reuses the water during manufacturing and reactive dyeing allows for this type of water recycling.
All our fabrics adhere to the rigorous REACH standard and hold the Oeko-tex standar100 certification, which ensures the fabric doesn’t have harmful residual substances. Oeko-tex also covers the ZDHC list of restricted chemicals (MRSL), ensuring the chemical footprint is reduced and no hazardous chemicals are used. The fabrics that are dyed in Turkey additionally have GOTS and OCS - certifications for both the dyeing and printing stages.
Harmful Effects
Dyeing is a chemically intensive process with a high environmental impact, which is why we are trying to be mindful of the process. The conventional dyeing processes’ use of chemicals has a level of risk to the people working with the dyes and the environment, because of carcinogens and allergens. The dyeing process consumes the most water, energy, and chemicals of the production processes. Especially the mordant that fixes the dye to the fiber can be toxic.
From an environmental perspective, undyed fabrics have the smallest impact since dyeing is one of the most toxic process in clothing production. It allows us to eliminate water use and contamination as well as the use of chemicals. By using undyed fabrics, we also reduce energy use.
Natural fibers such as cotton, hemp and wild silk come from living things and naturally have inconsistent shades. Working with undyed fibers allows us to appreciate the depth and uniqueness of their natural shades and textures. Shades of undyed fabrics vary from off-white to cream, so this variety is something we should appreciate and be aware of.
GOTS | OEKO-TEX | GRS | FSC | PEFC | OCS 100 | Terre Textile | REACH | |
Bamboo | • | • | • | • | ||||
Modal | • | • | • | • | ||||
Linen (woven) | • | • | • | |||||
Linen (knitted) | • | • | ||||||
Silk (woven) | • | • | ||||||
Silk (knitted) | • | • | ||||||
Cashmere | • | • | ||||||
Merino | • | • | ||||||
Recycled Wool | • | • | • | |||||
Recycled PA (Econyl) | • | • | • | |||||
Cotton | • | • | ||||||
Organic Cotton (jersey) | • | • | • | |||||
Organic Cotton (woven) | • | • | • | • | ||||
Organic Cotton (knitted) | • | • | • |
With recycled fibers like wool and cotton, we often mix our recycled fibers with regular uncertified fibers because of fiber length.
Time restraints and distance don’t always allow us to make the best available choices. It is crucial that instead of only looking at certifications, we are having conversations and visiting the people that work with the fibers.